tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5483471752664961069.post2101946637155281554..comments2023-12-22T09:21:35.599-08:00Comments on RepRap Log Phase: How many different ways can you mess up a Z axis? 9 so far.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14841570845002675047noreply@blogger.comBlogger6125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5483471752664961069.post-11235655070581958402010-07-31T21:55:44.404-07:002010-07-31T21:55:44.404-07:00We built one Mendel with the stock idler but had p...We built one Mendel with the stock idler but had problems because the part that holds the bearing is too high. We had to add extra washers to keep the belt from binding. For the second and third Mendel we made I looked at several options, including Vik's Z-axis setup, and settled on the one piece design to minimize the needed hardware.<br /><br />I have also had issues with my nozzle recently and am still working on getting a reliable one.<br /><br />Nick<br />http://reprapbreeding.blogspot.com/Nicholas C. Lewishttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02273901481436826351noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5483471752664961069.post-85441398400492665802010-07-31T17:48:42.243-07:002010-07-31T17:48:42.243-07:00oh...i wish old Neil wouldn't post stuff like ...oh...i wish old Neil wouldn't post stuff like this. I just couldn't take any more of him going on and on about his hot-end problems...i said send me the dang thing and I'll fix it. Printing with ABS is a solved problem but I never claimed 'gremlin-proof'!!Rickhttp://www.makergear.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5483471752664961069.post-49466505616685993352010-07-31T11:50:04.091-07:002010-07-31T11:50:04.091-07:00Took a look at that PTFE, Mcmaster's is only 3...Took a look at that PTFE, Mcmaster's is only 3 cents more per foot.whosawhatsis?https://www.blogger.com/profile/12792264289634575186noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5483471752664961069.post-23310965229536590082010-07-31T11:18:50.566-07:002010-07-31T11:18:50.566-07:00Looking closer his is much more elegant than mine....Looking closer his is much more elegant than mine. I will stick with my version till I get a print, and when i start scrubbing mass, I will definitely go his route.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14841570845002675047noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5483471752664961069.post-75975858232589895712010-07-31T11:10:23.602-07:002010-07-31T11:10:23.602-07:00Woho! It works! Good, now I feel better about th...Woho! It works! Good, now I feel better about the design, and about 10 points smarter because my mind went the same direction as Vik :) Thanks for pointing that out.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14841570845002675047noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5483471752664961069.post-25871035607898805892010-07-31T11:08:28.260-07:002010-07-31T11:08:28.260-07:00About the z tensioner, you mean like this? I had t...About the z tensioner, you mean like <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Z_Axis_Simplified" rel="nofollow">this</a>? I had the same idea, but Vik got there first.<br /><br />I like Power resistor heater (and <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3650" rel="nofollow">posted pics of mine</a>). It's a bit slower to heat and cool because of the added mass, but that thermal inertia should help if I ever get to printing (I was SO CLOSE when I accidentally tried to run my extruder cold and stripped the threads of my PTFE insulator, and had to order a new PEEK one). I hope you noticed that the aluminum is not pre-drilled (I didn't), but it's surprisingly easy to do if you've already got the metric drill bits and M6x1.0mm tap.<br /><br />If you've got the vertical space, I'd be interested to see how it works with the resistor parallel to the barrel instead of perpendicular. My kit actually came with 3 aluminum blocks, so I might try it myself if I can get my bighead nozzle cleaned up.whosawhatsis?https://www.blogger.com/profile/12792264289634575186noreply@blogger.com